Wicklow Mountains
I should have done this ages ago… catching up with my last few days in Ireland. It’s hard to look at my photos without wishing I was there. Only a month ago I was driving to Dublin…
Anyway! I’ll pretend that today I’m just getting home from the Wicklow Mountains. Carolyn and I went off on our own while the rest of the crew caught up on their sleep and the laundry. We left verrrry early in the morning, and took the backroads out to the N8 so we could skip going through Limerick. It was a cloudy morning that cleared off to a beautiful sunny day. I wanted to stop at Mountmellick to see the museum, but then decided to skip it, since Carolyn wasn’t too interested. It was way too early anyway, and I was eager to find something for breakfast.
We stopped at the Irish National Stud in Tully, Co. Kildare, but again, we were too early and decided that breakfast was much more appealing than waiting an hour to visit the stud. It looks like a beautiful place to visit though, so it’s on the list for my next trip.
We found our turnoff, and headed towards the Wicklow Mountains. Lovely rolling hillsides with lots of gorse and trees interspersed with pastures. Wilder than what I’ve been seeing, with few stone walls. We stopped at a little river with an attractive little bridge, stretched our legs, and took a few photos.
We hadn’t found breakfast yet, so piled back into the car, winding our way uphill and stopped at Wicklow Gap. It had clouded over, and was clearing again while we wandered around, taking photographs, collecting ceremonial rocks, and reading the interpretive signs. I so want to come when the heather is in bloom! Right now it’s a dull bronze color; interesting enough, but I’m sure it’s much prettier in flower.
We were surprised to learn that the mountain hides an electrical generating station. Apparently there’s a lake at the top (we didn’t walk up the road; I guess that’s why the road is there?), and at peak demand, water from the lake pours through the generator, lighting up homes in Ireland. I certainly wouldn’t have guessed!
Driving down the other side of the Gap, the vegetation changed until it was mostly trees. It reminded me of the California coastal mountains; maybe because the sun was playing hide and seek in the fog? Or the narrow windy road that slithered down the mountainside? We poked our noses into Glendalough, where we finally found something to eat at the beautiful Hotel Wicklow. It’s been there quite awhile, but is very well maintained and very modern as well. Lovely scones, hot coffee, cream, and marmalade. Delicious!
We spent a couple of hours rambling around the Wicklow Mountains National Park, the accompanying visitor’s center, and the monastic city next door. I must have taken forty photos of Rapunzel’s tower! Okay, it wasn’t Rapunzel’s tower; it’s a bell tower for what’s left of the monastery. There’s a wonderful cemetery with lots and lots of headstones with Celtic crosses. Why aren’t American cemeteries as interesting as Irish and European cemeteries? I even found a grave with blooming heather; now I know why I want to see the heather in bloom! Lovely lovely tiny lavender blooms. We crossed the creek and walked up the paved path to a small lake. Luckily it was still too early for gobs of tourists, though there were still plenty of people around. And the sunshine poured down; just for us, I’m sure!
Finally we had to get on our way, and off we went to Avoca. It’s a very small town with a big attraction for the two of us: Avoca Handweavers! The Avoca enterprise has been around since 1723, originally milling corn and weaving wool for the local miners. It’s become one of the premier woolen mills in Ireland, and I am so glad I visited! You’re allowed to go through the workshop; which I believe is largely ornamental now. Most of the production takes place elsewhere. It’s extremely noisy, and luckily enough, they provide you with earplugs. Quite interesting to see the huge looms clacking away, making some of the woolen goods that are sold in the store.
The grounds, shop, and café are absolutely gorgeous; of course it was still sunny, which always makes things prettier. The shop and café are in a large whitewashed stone building, with lots of windows looking out towards the workshop and nicely landscaped grounds. We ate lunch; a wonderful broccoli salad that prompted me to buy one of the Avoca cookbooks, and a sausage. Carolyn had something equally tasty, not that I remember what it was she ate!
After lunch, she made a beeline for the upstairs, where the seconds and sale items are housed. I wandered around downstairs, choosing a few small things, and then trailed after her. I couldn’t resist the wool yardage, packed in one meter lengths, and another sweater. This one is cotton, and it is hand embroidered! It’s adorable! Bright pink, soft, and very comfortable to wear. I also chose a few scarves for gifts. I resisted the blankets, as I have several that I don’t use very often, but they were lovely.
Downstairs featured more woolen goods of course, and lots of books, childrens’ toys and clothes, and clothing for women too. I suppose there was stuff for guys too, but why would I look at that?? ☺ I would love to have bought some more scarves, but enough is enough! It was a bit of choke to get out of there as it was!
We rambled off down the road, quite satisfied with what we’d seen and done already. We poked around Carlow, where I will be returning to on my next trip. I had seen Carrickmacross lace on the web, and it was on my list to visit, but since I wasn’t organized enough to look at my list before we left-eh, there wasn’t time to stop and visit Mary O’Neill. I also saw advertising for the Donard Workshop, for adult size slippers, something I’d hoped to purchase in Ireland, but hadn’t yet found. I’ll be back…
By now it was getting quite late in the afternoon, so after a wrong turn that sent us to a gas station since we needed to fill up anyway, we tootled on home at a leisurely pace, and were back at the farm around six o’clock. It was really fun to get to spend some time with Carolyn; she was the instigator of this whole trip, and the only one of the crew that I knew before we went to Ireland.
